Fort Davis, Texas, sits at approximately 5,050 feet above sea level — the highest town in the state, a designation officially recognized by the Texas Legislature. That elevation means noticeably cooler temperatures than the surrounding desert, which has made the town a summer refuge since before air conditioning existed. The town grew up around a U.S. Army post established in 1854 on the San Antonio–El Paso Road, built to protect travelers and freighters from Comanche and Apache raids. That original fort is now a National Historic Site and remains one of the most intact frontier military posts in the American Southwest. With a population of around 1,000, Fort Davis packs a remarkable amount into a small footprint: world-class astronomy, genuine frontier history, a 2,700-acre state park, and some of the darkest skies in the continental United States.
1. McDonald Observatory
The McDonald Observatory, operated by the University of Texas at Austin, sits atop Mount Locke and adjacent Mount Fowlkes in the Davis Mountains. The night sky above this part of West Texas ranks among the darkest in the country, making it one of the premier astronomical research sites in the world. The observatory houses several major telescopes, including the 107-inch Harlan J. Smith Telescope and the Hobby-Eberly Telescope, whose primary mirror is among the world’s largest.
Visitors can experience the observatory in two ways. During the day, guided tours of about 90 minutes take visitors through the research telescopes and cover the history and current work of the facility. The more memorable experience is the evening Star Party, where staff guide the audience through the night sky from the amphitheater, identifying constellations, planets, satellites, and deep-sky objects before moving to telescopes for live viewing. The observatory is open Tuesday through Saturday from noon to 5 p.m. for daytime programs; Star Parties are held on select evenings. Reservations are strongly recommended, especially in summer. Check the McDonald Observatory website for current schedules and ticket prices before your visit.
2. Davis Mountains State Park
Davis Mountains State Park covers 2,709 acres of rugged terrain at elevations between 5,000 and 6,000 feet — high enough to receive more rainfall than the surrounding Chihuahuan Desert, which produces a surprisingly lush environment of piñon pines, oaks, and native grasses. The park offers hiking, mountain biking, birdwatching, camping, and scenic driving. The Skyline Drive, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, is a paved road and trail running through the park with multiple viewpoints overlooking the surrounding mountains and valleys. The 75-mile Davis Mountains Scenic Loop, which begins and ends in Fort Davis, passes directly through the park on State Highway 118 — the stretch between Fort Davis and the McDonald Observatory is particularly striking near dusk.
The park is a well-known birding destination; more than 200 bird species have been recorded there, with higher diversity during spring and fall migration. The Civilian Conservation Corps structures throughout the park — stone walls, shelters, and the Skyline Drive itself — are part of the historical fabric of the landscape and worth seeking out as you explore.
3. Indian Lodge
Indian Lodge is a white adobe hotel built inside Davis Mountains State Park by the Civilian Conservation Corps between 1933 and 1935. It’s considered the crown jewel of CCC construction in Texas — a 39-room pueblo-style hotel with 18-inch-thick adobe walls, pine log ceilings, and hand-carved cedar furniture built by CCC craftsmen at Bastrop State Park. The original 16-room section opened in 1935; a 24-room addition with a dining room, meeting room, and pool followed in 1967.
The lodge closed in January 2023 for a major $3.5 million renovation and reopened in May 2025. The renovation upgraded the HVAC, plumbing, electrical, windows, and pool while preserving the historic CCC rooms. The on-site Black Bear Restaurant serves breakfast and lunch buffet-style Thursday through Monday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. (check the lodge’s Facebook page for weekly menus). Guests can book rooms online through the Texas State Parks reservation system or by calling 512-389-8900. Even if you’re not staying overnight, the lodge is open to day visitors and worth a stop to see the architecture and the pool terrace.
4. Fort Davis National Historic Site
Fort Davis was active from 1854 to 1891, with a gap during the Civil War when it was briefly abandoned. It served as the principal military post on the San Antonio–El Paso Road, protecting travelers, mail coaches, and freight wagons crossing the Trans-Pecos. After the Civil War, the Ninth U.S. Cavalry — a regiment of Buffalo Soldiers, African American troops — reoccupied the fort in 1867 and played a central role in the region’s frontier defense through the post’s final closure in 1891. The federal government declared the ruins a National Historic Site in 1961 and the National Park Service has since restored and stabilized much of the complex.
The visitor center has a 15-minute film on the fort’s history. A self-guided walking tour takes visitors through five restored and reconstructed structures, and recorded bugle calls corresponding to the soldiers’ daily schedule play at intervals while you walk the grounds. Pick up the bugle call pamphlet at the visitor center to follow along. The site is one of the best-preserved frontier forts in the country and requires at least an hour to do it justice.
5. Drive the 75-Mile Davis Mountains Scenic Loop
The Davis Mountains Scenic Loop covers approximately 75 miles of State Highways 118 and 166, beginning and ending in Fort Davis. The road climbs to the highest section of the Texas highway system, reaching around 6,700 feet at its peak, and passes through canyons, grasslands, and open mountain country. The stretch on State Highway 118 north through Davis Mountains State Park toward McDonald Observatory is the most concentrated stretch of scenery and makes sense as a standalone drive even if you don’t complete the full loop. Budget two hours for the complete loop without stops, but plan for more — the pull-offs for photographs are numerous.
6. Horseback Riding at Prude Ranch
Prude Ranch, located about six miles north of Fort Davis, has been a working guest ranch since the 1920s. Year-round guided horseback rides take riders through the Davis Mountains on trails that cross streams and open to wide views of the surrounding range. Rides run one to two hours. Riders must be older than 6 years and weigh no more than 220 pounds; jeans or pants and closed-toe shoes are required. The ranch also offers cabins, RV camping, and a summer camp program, and hosts the annual Texas Star Party for amateur astronomers. Book rides directly through the ranch at prude-ranch.com or by calling 432-426-3201.
7. Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute
The Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute (CDRI), situated in the foothills south of Fort Davis, is one of the region’s less-publicized but most rewarding stops. The grounds include a botanical garden, multiple hiking trails, a native grass exhibit, and the Maxie Templeton Cactus Museum Collection — one of the largest living collections of Chihuahuan Desert cacti in the world, with approximately 200 species housed in a greenhouse. The Trans-Pecos Natives Garden features nearly 165 labeled native plant species from the surrounding region. The CDRI also maintains a mining heritage exhibit and a grotto of Chinquapin oaks. Admission is modest. Confirm current hours and entry fees at the CDRI website before visiting, as seasonal hours can vary.
8. Take in the Davis Mountains Scenic Loop Near Marfa
Marfa lies about 20 miles southwest of Fort Davis on State Highway 17 and makes a natural extension to any Fort Davis visit. The town is best known for two things: its internationally recognized contemporary art scene (the Chinati Foundation, founded by minimalist artist Donald Judd, occupies a decommissioned army fort on the edge of town) and the Marfa Mystery Lights. The Marfa Lights — unexplained atmospheric light phenomena visible on clear nights from the official viewing area nine miles east of town on US Route 67 — have been documented since the 19th century and remain scientifically unexplained. The viewing area has a covered shelter and interpretive panels; no fee. Marfa is also home to the landmark Hotel Paisano, where cast and crew stayed during the filming of the 1956 film Giant.
9. Taste WildGins Co. at Blue Mountain Bar & Grill
WildGins Co. produces a small-batch gin distilled in Austin using native Texas juniper berries hand-foraged in the Davis Mountains near Fort Davis. The local juniper varieties lend a distinctive flavor profile that sets it apart from standard London-dry styles. Blue Mountain Bar & Grill in Fort Davis is the only establishment in town that stocks it; ask for it on the rocks or as the house cocktail. The gin is made in Austin but the botanicals come from the land surrounding Fort Davis — a small, tangible connection between the drink and the landscape around you.
10. Wine Tasting at Chateau Wright Winery
Chateau Wright is a boutique winery on the southern flank of Blue Mountain, operating within the Davis Mountains American Viticultural Area (AVA). The winery produces wines exclusively from Texas-grown grapes, working with the elevated elevation and cool nights that distinguish this part of the state from lower-altitude Texas wine regions. Reviewers frequently cite the Tempranillo and Grenache blend “Heraldic Red” as a standout. The tasting room also has a food truck on-site. Verify current hours directly with the winery before visiting, as seasonal schedules vary.
Getting There and When to Visit
Fort Davis is roughly three and a half hours southeast of El Paso and about the same distance from San Antonio, placing it firmly in West Texas road-trip territory rather than a quick day trip from a major city. The town is accessible via State Highway 17 through Marfa or State Highway 118 from Alpine. The elevation keeps summer temperatures significantly cooler than low-elevation Texas — daytime highs in July and August typically reach the mid-80s°F rather than the triple digits common in nearby cities — making summer a popular time to visit. Spring and fall offer the most temperate conditions and the best birdwatching. McDonald Observatory’s Star Parties run year-round but book up quickly in summer; reservations well in advance are advisable.
Fort Davis pairs naturally with other West Texas destinations. Our scenic loop drive guide covers the broader principles of planning a West Texas road trip. For stargazing context across the Southwest, see our guide to stargazing destinations. Visitors extending their trip east toward Big Bend will find useful planning information in our scenic road trip guide, and our overview of horseback riding vacations in the USA covers Prude Ranch in the broader context of the country’s best riding destinations.
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